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Chip began
this forum on the Shifter refurbishment with a short introduction about
this mechanical, often over used and neglected, item which is the heart of our C1's. The impetus for this discussion
was a malfunctioning shifter that occurred while on a
recent Chapter tour.
Some comments: 1) 1957 was the first 4-spd. shifter, 2) Road
Tests usually were very positive as the unit was smooth,
positive and well placed, 3) Comparisons of shifter assemblies
are made to JAG, MG and Triumph shifters but the T10 gear box
was fully synchro-meshed.
The Shifter Assy
is rather simple having 50 to 60 moving parts but does have many
moving parts with metal-on-metal contact which could introduce wear.
These units operate, and are often neglected without lubrication after initial installation. |
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The above pictured item and
illustration is a
Borg-Warner T10 4-spd. transmission out of a C1 Corvette.
Mounted to the transmission tail-housing (using 3 bolts) is a 4-spd.
shifting assembly which is used to control the gear selection while driving. The chrome "tower" which
extends straight up from the shifting assembly is the only
component visible in the C1 passenger compartment.
The shifting assembly working components and transmission are located below the
floor.
The shifting tower is capped off
with a ivory colored ball and just below is the "T-handle" which
when pulled up allows the shifter to select the reverse gear. This T-handle is a reverse-lock-out to
prevent accidentally shifting into reverse while using the 4
forward gears.
Most likely this shifter assembly refurbishment
is performed on the work bench prior to transmission installation. However, the
shifter assembly can be removed from an operational car, leaving
the transmission installed, and the unit refurbished on the
bench. The following technique is a process labeled as
"Chip's Way" which outlines a series of steps he has
successfully used. |
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Description:
In order to become more familiar
with the transmission components, review the pictures and
illustration above. The labels on the picture indicate the shifter assembly,
chrome tower w/T-handle, interconnecting rods/links between the
transmission and shifter, and the bolts fastening the shifter to
the tail-housing. The shifter interconnect links are
fastened to the transmission using clevis assemblies. The
links are then fastened to the shifter by a 90-degree bend in
the link and spring clips.
3 bolts fasten the shifter
assembly to the
transmission tail-housing. 2 bolts are visible with the third obscured
behind the shifter. Accessing the shifter from below the
car, with the transmission installed, is tight as the rear mount
for the motor is just forward of the assembly. The 3 bolts
can be removed and one method suggested is to support the rear
portion of the transmission and remove the motor mount.
Prior to removing the 3 shifter mounting bolts, disconnect the
shifting links from either the transmission or from the shifter
and the speedometer cable. A 1/4 inch drive with extension
and universal joint or swivel 9/16 socket will remove the bolts.
Notice that interconnecting rods
extend from the shifter assy. to the arms on the transmission.
As the arms are rotated the gear selection is made inside the
transmission. Coincidentally, the links are marked, in the
picture, with two numbers indicating which gears are being
controlled by which link. The furthest forward arm/link
controls 1st & 2nd gear, the next rear arm is 3rd & 4th gears
and finally the shortest link is Reverse.
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The following procedure was supplied
by Chip and it is "his way". |
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Step 1: Remove the rubber shifting
boot from the top, inside the car.
Step 2: Crawl under car, or
use a car lift, but disassemble the rods between the
transmission and the control levers on the shifter assembly.
The Clevis end of the rods can be removed and/or the "Jesus" springs
can be removed. Keep the washers and any spacers that
might be used.
Step 3: Remove the 3 bolts
attaching the shifter housing from the transmission
tail-housing. This might require supporting and/or
removing the transmission mount. Remove the Shifter Assy. |
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Below are close-up pictures of the
shifter assembly.
Note that all the shifting levers
extend from a single shaft and the tower is also fastened
to the same shaft using a dowel pin. The lower end of the
tower has a ball which fixes the side motion as the Tower is moved
from side to side and will restrict the shaft motion to be side to
side. This side to side motion allows selection of one of
the 3 shifter levers during gear selection. A anti-rattle
spring removes some looseness of the Tower by preloading the
assembly. The spring sometimes does fall off and the dowel
pinning the Tower to the shaft sometimes must be replaced.
Two tower repairs are roll pins or in some cases a bolt/nut
combination to replace the dowel.
Attaching the Shifting Links to the Shifter Levers is a slip fit
with an item known as Jesus Springs. Attaching, or
removing, these springs originates the name when they go flying
across the garage. Leaving these Jesus Springs off is a
source of rattle/vibration. |
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Shifter Assembly, Disassembly (on
bench). |
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During disassembly of the Shifter
Assy: 1) The shifter links are disconnected from the Shifter
Assy., 2) 3 bolts fasten the Shifter Assy. to the transmission
tail-housing and the unit can be removed from below the car.
Previously, the shifter boot could be removed from the passenger
compartment side. Disconnecting the shifter links can be
done at the clevis end or J spring end of the links.
Usually it is easier to remove the clevis end.
Step 1: Disassemble the Shifter
Assy. on the bench. Remove the anti rattle spring and the
2 bolts securing the lower tower ball guide plate.
Step 2: The shaft cross-shaft end cap (labeled
in the picture) is removed with two bolts and the entire
assembly can be disassembled. Check the dowel pin looseness of Tower on
shaft.
Step 3:
Clean all parts and inspect condition. Inspect for wear. |
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Prior to Reassembly:
The items
listed are small but are necessary to avoid vibration/rattling
when installed in the car.
Clean the threads on the shifter
link rods and clean threads inside of the clevis adjustments.
Also check threads on jam nuts which lock clevis adjustments.
Verify that you have the spring
clips (Jesus springs) for the shifter links. Order new
clips if necessary.
Verify that there are spring
washers which are installed on the shifter links at the clevis
pin for later installation.
An additional item is
indicated next which was a "fix" issued by Chevrolet on May 16,
1963. The Technical bulletin is listed below for
convenience. |
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These slip-on insulators can be
fabricated easily using the inside door handle (window or door)
protectors.
Lubricate all the shifter parts
and the common shaft. Chip's recommendation is use an
anti-seize compound.
Reassemble the Shifter into
frame and install nylon washers fabricated above. Use the
illustration layout to assist in the assembly of parts.
Install the tower lower guide and cross shaft end support.
Make sure the tower reverse lock-out is functional.
If the reverse tang is not
functioning as the T-handle is squeezed, the tower must be
disassembled and a rivet must be drilled out to accomplish this
disassembly. Internal to the tower is a part (available
from Corvette parts suppliers) which most likely cannot be
repaired. This part is a cable spring assembly with the
tang attached to one end. Purchase a new part.
Install the new cable/tang spring assembly and a new rivet.
The Reverse Lock-out
mechanism is internal to the Shifting Tower and is actuated by
squeezing the T-handle on the tower. When squeezing, the
shifter is allowed to move over to the left (drivers side)
and engage the reverse gear. Failure of the Lock-out
requires removal of the tower and disassembly to replace the
lock-out mechanism. The picture below illustrates the
Lock-out mechanism.
As
noted in the picture, a cable, T-handle, spring and lock-out
lever are an assembly and the disassembly of the tower is
required to replace this part. The entire assembly is
available from Corvette Central, part number 531111, and the
cost is approximately $50. Disassembly of the shifting
tower is begun by removing the pin from the cross shaft and
removing a dowel holding the tower together. Once the new
part is installed reassembly the tower, pin and a new pin
fastening the tower to the cross shaft. |
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Understanding the shifter adjustment
and the Reverse Lock-out.
The picture below shows the shifter
in neutral position. Another drawing below illustrates the
concept also.
Notches are located in the upper
part of each shifter lever arm that slips onto the shifter shaft. When these notches are
aligned (in the same position) the shifter assembly is in the
neutral position, i.e. no gears are engaged. As the
picture below indicates, when the T-handle is squeezed the tang
on the tower travels up and the tower motion can be moved away
from the transmission and the tang will engage the outer shift
lever resulting in the ability to move the tower forward and
engage reverse.
The remaining adjustment
is performed when the shifter is assembled to a transmission.
This adjustment will be the link/rod length adjustment.
Place the shifting tower in the
neutral position by noting that all the notches are aligned.
Insert the shifting adjustment block indicated in the drawing
below. This item is obtainable from Corvette parts
suppliers. The block is a very simple part and Chip
provided these blocks at the meeting.
Once the block fixes the neutral
position, the shifter levers and the rotating arms on the
transmission are positioned in neutral. The neutral
position of the arms on the transmission are: forward gears rods
are in a 12 o' clock position (straight up) and reverse is
rotated forward. Adjust the rod length by screwing the
clevis's to lengthen or shorten the link length. A final
check is to remove the adjusting block and shift through the
gears.
It is possible to
perform the above adjustment
with the transmission in the car but it is easier to perform the
adjustment on the bench with the shifter attached to
the transmission. The final attachment of the clevis's to
the transmission should have the correct hardware: a pin, spring
washer and cotter keys. Lube the pins prior to inserting
into the clevis. |
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The
above picture indicates a process to perform the Shifter Link
length adjustment after refurbishment of the Shifter. The
drawing to the left will assist to indicate the correct
installation of the gage block. Each shifter lever arm
contains a groove which is aligned with forward and rear motions
of the tower. When the groves are aligned, the gage block
is installed and after setting the transmission gear levers to a
neutral position (lever points straight up and down) the clevis
ends of the links can be screwed CW or CCW to lengthen of
shorten each link until the clevis fits. The gage blocks
were handed out for Free as Chip Werstein had them fabricated in
quantity. They are also available at a cost from most
Corvette parts suppliers. |
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During the Q & A after
Chip's talk. The two bolts fastening the transmission to
the motor mount at the rear of the car are special bolts.
After installation, and you have the correct bolts with holes
through the hex head, a safety wire should be added which is
correct on original cars. A picture below indicates this
condition.
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Thank You to Chip Werstein for
this presentation. |
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